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Fresno State's student-run newspaper

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Fresno State's student-run newspaper

The Collegian

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Food review: I went to this iconic Chinatown restaurant to get a taste of the South

Chef+Pauls+Cafe+is+located+at+952+F+St.+in+Fresnos+Chinatown+and+is+open+for+business+Wednesday+through+Sunday+from+11%3A30+a.m.+to+4+p.m.+%28Carlos+Rene+Castro%2F+The+Collegian%29
Chef Paul’s Cafe is located at 952 F St. in Fresno’s Chinatown and is open for business Wednesday through Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. (Carlos Rene Castro/ The Collegian)

Before entering through the double doors of Chef Paul’s Cafe, you might question why this restaurant at 952 F St. in Fresno’s Chinatown receives excellent reviews.

From the outside looking in, the building of Chef Paul’s Cafe is a lonely, humble-looking restaurant. But once you enter the restaurant, you immediately hear the buzzing sounds of the sizzling oil. At the same time, customers chat at the dining table, waiting for their favorite dishes to arrive.

A Chef’s Paul Cafe server submitting a customer’s order on Sunday noon. (Carlos Rene Castro/ The Collegian)

Surprisingly, I wasn’t expecting Chef Paul’s Cafe to be packed on a late September Sunday afternoon. Since transferring to Fresno State in the fall of 2021, I had heard about the restaurant but I never really had a reason to go there.

However, two months ago, my friend from high school suggested we catch up and eat at Chef Paul’s Cafe. Unfortunately, the restaurant was unexpectedly closed.

Now, months later, I decided to continue my food review ventures and see what Chef Paul’s Cafe is all about.

Chef Paul’s Cafe serves authentic, traditional Southern food while creating a warm and friendly atmosphere for its customers. During my satisfying experience at Chef Paul’s Cafe, I ordered the braised oxtail, which included two sides of my choosing: mac and cheese and rice pilaf.

The food took about 30 minutes to arrive at my table since the restaurant was buzzing with customers. Every table in the restaurant was taken, but I lucked out on the only open chair at the bar. While waiting for my food to arrive, one of the chefs was dancing through the kitchen while quickly dipping batters of fried food into hot oil.

For $24.95, the braised oxtail dish at Chef Paul’s Cafe is a go-to option for the taste of the tender meat and the cornbread. (Carlos Rene Castro/ The Collegian)

When the oxtail dish finally arrived at my table, I couldn’t have been happier. My first impression was the generous portion of the side dishes and how simple, yet elegant the food was on the plate. I didn’t waste any more time thinking and dove into eating the fatty, flavored meat off the bone from the oxtail.

The meat of the oxtail was so delicious I skipped out on using a fork and ate each piece of meat with my bare hands. The broth of the braise in the oxtails sealed the deal for me. Its savory, fresh taste made me lick my fingers like a child.

When I dug my fork into the rice pilaf, I’ll be honest this was the first time I’ve tasted rice pilaf, so I wasn’t expecting to be satisfied by the rice. Let me tell you, rice pilaf is my new favorite side dish thanks to Chef Paul’s! The rice had a fluffy, buttery taste that complimented the juicy oxtail meat.

Before getting full, I had a few spoonfuls of the mac and cheese, which was cheesy and mouthwatering. The combination of the two side dishes and the oxtail was a masterpiece. Lastly, the oxtail dish included a small square piece of cornbread that was not too sweet and very enjoyable to eat.

I’ve never been to the Southern parts of the United States, but truth be told, I don’t need to. Eating at Chef Paul’s Cafe makes you feel like you are in the South due to its friendly atmosphere.

The staff at Chef Paul’s Cafe are constantly checking in on customers. Besides me at the bar, a young couple seated next to me didn’t seem amused by the three dishes they ordered. One of the dishes they ordered was chicken and waffles.

Weirdly enough, they kept glancing over me and were amused that I was taking notes while eating my food. I’m sure they suspected that I was up to something unusual. But then an employee checked in on them and asked, “What could we do better next time?” Eventually, the couple left their chairs with three to-go food boxes, assuming they enjoyed the food.

Chef Paul’s Cafe is the right place for anyone interested in delicious food. I recommend enjoying your dining experience with your best friend or a loved one because soul food deserves to be enjoyed with your favorite person.

Chef Paul’s Cafe is open for business Wednesday through Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.

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