The science of wine

Fresno State joins forces with the Fresno Metropolitan Museum to raise money, educate

By Cindy Gonzales

The sounds of laughter, music and the pop of wine bottle corks filled the Lyles Theatre in downtown Fresno on Friday night.

A form of artwork was being celebrated: the art of wine.

Fresno State’s viticulture and enology department joined the Fresno Metropolitan Museum in presenting “The Science of Wine,” a wine-tasting and food-pairing experience that incorporated both into a fun-filled evening.

The workshop allowed more than 100 guests to sample some of the valley’s best wines from local wineries, including Fresno State’s.

“Tonight is a great representation of the wine we have to offer,” said Krystal Goulart, a junior double majoring in enology, the study of making wine, and viticulture, the study of growing grapes.
Robert Wample, the chair of Fresno State’s viticulture and enology department, and Fresno State professor Ken Fugelsang spoke to the audience about the art of grape-growing, wine making and the chemistry involved in both.

“You have to taste, taste, and taste,” said Mike Carey, a Whole Foods chef who spoke at the event.
Carey said in order to become a proficient wine drinker, you must try the wine first before purchasing it.
“Sip it, swallow it, swish it, smell it,” Carey said. “Do anything that makes you taste it.”

Carey spoke to the audience about choosing a wine based on personal tastes and developing a menu for a meal based on the wine.

He emphasized the importance of recognizing the elements and tastes of each wine and using that knowledge when trying to pair it with food.

The after-hours event allowed wine-tasting enthusiasts to view the French Toulouse-Lautrec: Artist of Montmarte exhibit on display.

Kurt Gross, director of science programs at the museum, helped create the evening with help from Whole Foods, which donated the food, and the local wineries, which provided the wine.

Local wineries included Engelman Cellars, Chateau Lasgoity, Sequoia View Vineyards and Fresno State.

All proceeds generated from the ticket sales went toward improving the education programs at the museum.

Goulart knows first hand how difficult it is to make a great-tasting wine.

“You have to be passionate about winemaking,” Goulart said. “Every step involved is extremely important.”

The purple-stained fingertips on both of her hands and the grape juice-stained clothing she owns are daily reminders of exactly how hard it is to make a great-tasting bottle of wine, she said.

During the grape harvest from August to November, Goulart is on call 24 hours a day, seven days a week to help in the wine-making process. She said harvesting is the busiest time for students and the most crucial time for grapes in both the fields and the winery.

“When it’s harvest time, the grapes don’t wait,” Goulart said.

Tish Cooper, a senior enology major, agrees.

“Developing a wine is definitely a challenge,” said Cooper, who works more than 60 hours a week at Engelman Cellars as tasting room manager, and in Canadaguia Winery’s analytical chemistry lab.
Cooper said in addition to physical labor, winemaking incorporates aspects of business, science and art, and that if you fail in any one of these you fail in the industry.

Wample discussed the new technology and achievements in the winemaking industry of California and Fresno State. He said students are in the process of changing the perception of the San Joaquin Valley wineries by taking valley-grown grapes and turning them into quality products that make quality wine.
“An artistic ability is required to recognize what you like and what works best with each variety,” said Barry Gump, a Fresno State professor of chemistry and enology.

In order to appreciate wine, Gump said, one must have the ability to instinctively taste all the components in each wine.

He said winemakers and wine tasters who understand chemistry are consistently better at determining certain qualities and hidden virtues of wine.